BioPod Tips and Tweaks

(This page refers to the original BioPod only, not the newer BioPod Plus)

1. Assembling the BioPod
2. Lid tab modification
3. Optional straight drain modification
4. Coconut fiber pre-filter
   

1) ASSEMBLING THE BIOPOD

DRAIN ASSEMBLY - At one point in the assembly process you need to insert the drain body through the BioPod body, the metal stand, and the lid of the liquid collection jar before threading the drain nut on to it. It can be tricky to hold all of these bulky parts while threading the nut. The problem comes in trying to hold the drain from inside the BioPod body, and it may be easier for some if the unit is upside down while threading the nut. My alternative method takes advantage of the bar that crosses the diameter of the drain opening. After lining up the parts as described you can grab the drain crossbar with a pair of pliers and turn the assembly upside-down.*  While holding the drain with pliers (with one hand) you can set the inverted BioPod firmly on the ground and use the other hand to tighten the drain nut. By gently pulling up on the pliers you can make securing the drain nut easier.**

*You have to pass the pliers through the nut so that it’s in position before grabbing the drain crossbar with the pliers.

**The threads on the outside of the drain body are reversed (so that they match up with the inside threads which receive the filter body). Keep this in mind while threading the drain nut onto the drain body.

The fit of the nut on the outer threads of the drain is somewhat loose and if you try to tighten it snugly it may jump the threads. I’ve gotten feedback that assembling the drain has been tricky, but no one has reported any malfunctions once they’ve put their BioPods into use.

2) LID TAB MODIFICATION

I DRILLED HOLES IN THE UPPER TABS TO MAKE THIS MODIFICATION. IF YOU DO THIS YOU RUN THE RISK OF DOING PERMANENT DAMAGE TO YOUR BIOPOD, WHICH WILL BE ENTIRELY YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY.

The BioPod is manufactured with two tabs on the top of the lid that line up with two tabs on the BioPod body. The o-rings that are included with a BioPod slip over the top and bottom tabs to keep the lid in place. While this works fine I chose to modify my upper tabs so that I could attach rings directly to the top tab. With this modification I’m less likely to lose the rings.

After making this change I needed larger rings and I couldn’t easily find o-rings that were large enough. I ended up buying a package of hair holding stretchy things at a drugstore. They were cheap and they seem to work fine.

For this tweek you only drill one hole in each of the two upper tabs which are molded into the lid. I used a 1/4 inch (6-7mm) drill bit. I held a piece of metal behind the tab to protect the BioPod lid. The hole didn’t seem to significantly weaken the tab, but as a precautionary measure you could first fill the hollow space inside the tabs with a two part epoxy and let it harden.

3) OPTIONAL STRAIGHT DRAIN – D.I.Y. MODIFICATION

UPDATE: I recently removed the compost from my half full BioPod because it was draining slowly which I thought was due to clogging. With the BioPod empty I added a few quarts/liters of water to it and it drained in 15-20 seconds so the problem wasn’t the drain itself. Robert from ProtaCulture suggested that I try adding a layer of coconut fiber, also known as coir, to the bottom of the BioPod as a pre-filter. I’ve done this and give more details in the next section of this page.

I decided not to use the liquid or “tea” that results from bio-composting with BSF so I installed a drain that runs directly into the ground.

Care should be taken to prevent the tea from leaking out anywhere near the BioPod. That’s because this liquid is a very strong attractant to the female BSF adults who are looking for an egg laying site. If any tea is present outside of the BioPod some of the females will lay their eggs near it and the resulting grubs won’t be contained in the unit. This usually wouldn’t be an issue with an existing colony because you’ll still get plenty of eggs in the BioPod, but it could slow the process of establishing a colony.

Sometimes manufacturers modify their design, but If your drain is exactly like mine this is a very simple project. Fortunately the inner threads on my BioPod’s filter matched the threads on a 1.5 inch pvc male adapter. You may want to confirm that your drain also matches the adapter’s threads before beginning the project.

Supplies

• 1.5 inch pvc pipe – about 2 feet long
• (1) 1.5 inch pvc adapter with male threads
• Pvc glue
• Plastic scrubbers or any similar material – I used two types, one course and one fine
• An old cotton tee shirt or towel
• 5 gallons of large rocks

Procedure

This will be much easier with a new or empty BioPod. Of course you must remove the liquid collection jar and the filter body and original filter material. Removing the jar lid requires disassembling the unit and is optional.

CAUTION: You could really hurt yourself doing stuff like this. You’ve been warned!

1. Glue the pvc male adapter to the pipe.
2. Invert the BioPod.
3. Screw the pipe into the threads originally designed for the filter body (metal screen), but do not tighten it securely.
4. Mark the pipe at the point where it will enter the ground, roughly even with the feet of the stand.
5. Remove the pipe and carefully cut or drill drainage holes beginning a few inches below where the drain enters the ground. No holes should be made in the section of pipe that will be above the ground.
6. Tighten the pipe firmly into the filter threads – I used “real-tuff” paste thread sealant to make tightening easier and to better seal it.
7. Stuff whatever you’re using as filter medium into the pipe. I pulled my plastic scrubbers apart first so they would fit more uniformly in the pipe. I put the looser scrubbers at the top because I think it will be less likely to clog up than the finer material. You could probably use just the looser type, but I didn’t have enough.
8. Dig the drain hole deep enough to accept the drain pipe, but don’t make it as wide as the BioPod legs.
9. Line the hole with some fabric that will biodegrade easily so you can leave it in the ground. This will prevent fine dirt from filling the spaces between the rocks.
10. Set the BioPod with attached drain in place
11. Fill the lined hole with rocks
12. Cover the top of the rock with fabric.
13. Fill in with soil as needed.

My directions above are a little different than the order I used so these photos don’t match them exactly. I suggest using the written directions primarily and using the photos as a general reference.

4) COCONUT FIBER (coir) PRE-FILTER

EDIT:  When I installed this pre-filter layer my BioPod was half full of compost which I returned to the unit after placing the coconut fiber. The pre-filter is working very well for me a few months after installing it, but I’ve noticed a possible problem with the coir I used to line my new Do-it-yourself composter. Because I didn’t have anything to place on top of the fiber except a small amount of new food scraps the larvae began digging into the coir causing it to expand. This expansion probably reduces the effectiveness of the coir as a pre-filter. For that reason I’ll suggest adding a layer of soil, rocks, or perhaps a layer of ¼ inch (6mm) wire mesh on top of the coir to prevent the BSF grubs from shredding it. There are cut-to-fit air conditioner filters that may also work. If anyone has a suggestion for an alternate pre-filter material or for a better way to use coir please contact us or leave a comment below. Thanks.

Coconut fiber from the outer husk is called “coir” and is the stuff used to make the lining for wire planters, hanging baskets, and floor mats. It’s very durable and biodegradable. It also may be a good pre-filter material for the drainage system on a BioPod. I only installed coir in my unit yesterday, but I did so on the advice of ProtaCulture staff who designed and distribute the BioPod.

Liquid waste results from processing the food scraps placed into the BioPod and the quantity can be heavy when composting high moister items like melons, etc. As liquid is released it first perks down through the compost to the floor of the BioPod and from there it must flow sideways to reach the drain opening. The lateral flow of liquids is inherently slower because it doesn’t benefit nearly as much from gravity, and in addition this lower level of compost is the most dense layer due to the weight of the material above it. By lining the entire bottom the BioPod with coir you create a much easier path for the liquids to travel to the drain opening.

Coir comes in different forms including bricks of compressed fiber that can be expanded and spread. It’s also available as preformed shapes to fit planters as well as flat discs for the same purpose. For my BioPod I choose to use a preformed “bowl” shaped piece, mostly because it was on sale for $1. The diameter of my coir was 14 inches which is about right for the bottom of the BioPod, but the shape wasn’t right. To flatten it I soaked it in water for several hours and squished under some plywood and heavy weights. The resulting “disc’ was very lumpy, something that might actually help make it more effective. The flat discs of coir that I found were almost one inch thick and my “bowl” shaped piece is only a little more than .25 inches. I’m guessing the even my thin piece will be sufficient, especially with the wrinkles that were formed from squeezing it into place. In the end I think coir in any form up to about an inch will increase the flow of liquids through the system. In short, just get some coir onto the bottom of your BioPod and you should have better drainage.

My BioPod is half full so I had to remove the compost to install the coir. All that takes is a holding container for the compost and some sturdy gloves. If your compost is very wet you may want to reduce the liquid by first by mixing in some shredded office paper (not glossy or newspaper) or non-pressure treated sawdust and withholding wet food items for a few days before installing the coir.