Attracting the initial black soldier fly (BSF) females to start up a BSF composter can be problematic if you don’t understand the basic principles involved. Of course the first step is to determine if your area is populated by BSF, but once you’re satisfied that they’re present it shouldn’t be too difficult to attract them. As always; please keep in mind that I’m not an entomologist and what I write about BSF is part educated guess and part practical experience.

Realistic time frame

Often people are successful at inoculating their composters before they even know it. It’s important to understand that it can take 2 – 4 weeks from the time that eggs are laid until you can easily see the resulting larvae or “grubs”. Sometimes you can see clutches of eggs laid in the corners or crevices of the composter or bait container, however, often the females randomly scatter their tiny eggs on the inner and outer walls of the unit. That makes it almost impossible to see them without magnification. The newly hatched larvae are also tiny so after the bait (food scrap) has been out for several days they could be present without being obvious. For that reason it’s usually not wise to throw away any existing bait and start over; you may very well be discarding recently hatched larvae. Below is a photo of a black soldier fly larva (BSFL) on the sixth day after it’s egg was laid which makes it approximately two days old. You just can’t glance at a pile of rotting food and know if these little creatures are present or not.

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Choosing the menu

Larvae of the black soldier fly (Hermetia Illucens) are designed to consume decomposing plant or animal material, or partially digested food (manure). If you set out fresh food scraps you won’t have a good chance of success until it begins to break down somewhat. You will always attract other fly species in the beginning, but once the BSF population expands to a high density they will dominate the waste causing other species to avoid it. Fruit, vegetables and grain can be used as bait but I don’t recommend adding meats until after you have established a dense colony.

You can attract BSF with a variety of foods but my favorite method uses grains. The reason is that they are easy to ferment and relatively stable, meaning they don’t become anaerobic (sewer-like odor) too easily. At least that’s how it appears to me. Anaerobic bacteria thrive in the absence of oxygen and BSFL do not do well in that type of environment. While you don’t want foul odors I do recommend using a strong sour odor to attract BSF females. I assume they follow a scent trail to the food source so I try to use a bait that I can smell from a few feet away. The difference between a sewer-like odor and a sour odor may not be clear to you immediately but we all understand the stink of a sewer and you don’t want that. I usually start with plain dried cracked corn from the feed store which is sold as chicken feed. It is covered in water and soaked for a few weeks before using it. I do this outdoors in a container with a tight fitting lid. The odor resulting from the fermentation is very attractive to BSF because the sour grain is a good food source for them. I have a post about using fermented corn here: Attracting BSF with corn

Keep the bait moist

One very good reason to keep the food scraps moist is that any larvae that might have hatched will need approximately 70% moisture to thrive. Another reason is that moist bait will give off a stronger scent trail than bait which has a dry crust on it. When I use fermented corn I keep it completely covered with water. If you’re keeping the bait in your composter with a filter pad I recommend temporarily installing a container to hold the bait so that you can more easily keep it moist. Below are photos of one approach I used in a BioPod Plus. The first photo is after two days and the second was taken a few weeks later. As you can see it would have been much more difficult to keep the scraps moist if they were sitting directly on the filter material. Shortly after the second photo was taken I added the waste and larvae directly to the composter. (What may look like large BSFL in the first photo is actually puffed rice.)

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I didn’t use fermented corn in these photos because I didn’t have a batch ready. A few days after the the last photo was taken I placed a small container of fermented corn with its liquid inside the composter with the other waste. I already had larvae by then but the goal is to keep as many females coming to the composter as possible during the early stages. Once you have a dense colony established plenty of females will visit the unit to lay their eggs without any special effort on your part.

Keep the bait warm

The common wisdom is that a BSF composter must be kept fully shaded. This is true in most cases but there are notable exceptions. Just as you will produce a stronger scent trail by keeping the bait moist, you will also produce a stronger scent if the bait is warm. For that reason I kept the composter in the above photos in full sun during the period in April and May when I was initially attracting BSF. I would have chosen a shady place if this had been during the middle of the summer, but during the cooler days of spring a sunny spot worked better. The rule to remember about temperature, and sunny versus shady location, is simply this; try to keep the temperature inside your BSF unit roughly between 70ºF and 100ºF (21-38C). The generally accepted range that BSFL can survive is between 33ºF and 115ºF (1-46C). Our goal here is to keep them warm enough to stay active but cool enough that we don’t approach the fatal heat level. The reason overheating is such an issue in a densely populated composter is that the larvae generate a lot of heat as they metabolize waste. In a unit that has no larvae yet or is thinly populated overheating is only an issue when daily (ambient) temperatures are very high.

Divide and conquer

It makes sense that your odds of successfully attracting BSF females will be higher if you set out bait in multiple locations on the same or different properties. Of course you can choose to attract BSF directly to your composter, but using a separate container for bait makes it easier to experiment with different locations if you don’t want to move your composter around. While you can use almost any container for the bait you will probably have better results if you use something that supports the goals of keeping the bait moist and warm. It’s also a good idea to prevent excessive rainfall from entering and flooding or diluting the food scraps. Your attractor unit can be as simple as a bucket with a lid and few holes cut into the sides. I’m currently testing a design that uses a common plastic coffee container and I will post photos of it soon.

Another alternative; don’t wait for BSF to find you

Setting out baits to attract BSF females can be very effective, but I also recommend hunting for eggs and larvae. I regularly advise people that a great way to find BSFL is to start a traditional compost pile which includes kitchen scraps or find someone who will let you search in theirs. The kitchen scraps are important because BSFL are not designed to consume high cellulose items like grass, leaves and paper. If you can collect some larvae from a compost pile you probably won’t have enough to fully populate your composter, but the larvae are a powerful attractant to egg laden females. Add the collected larvae to your BSF unit along with some of the compost they were found in. As mentioned above; keep the material moist and warm and the subtle scent of the larvae plus the odor of the food scraps will work very well.

Another option is to hunt for BSF eggs which are then added to your composter. You can often find eggs that have been laid on household garbage cans. To be honest this is the most frequent method I use for starting new units in the spring. Consider that a typical garbage can has all of the elements to satisfy the basic requirements for attracting BSF; they contain decomposing food, and they tend to be moist and warm inside. When I want to attract BSF I leave one of our garbage cans full for an extended period so that it starts to give off a noticeable odor. In my experience it works like a BSF magnet. Since we use black can liners the light colored eggs show up very clearly. I take an old knife and gently scrape the clutches of eggs into a small lid or shallow container and place it in the composter on top of the food scraps. When the larvae hatch they will crawl into the waste and begin eating.

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Those are the basic concepts based on my experience. BSFL eagerly consume anything that humans eat and more, so you don’t necessarily need to limit yourself to what I’ve mentioned here. I assume what I’ve written here can be improved on, but it will get you started. Check back soon if you’re interested in seeing my coffee can BSF attractor. :)

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I’m testing a strategy for improving the conditions in a BSF composter based on the addition of corn cob pieces sold as hamster bedding.* Before putting any waste into the unit (in this case a BioPod) I added a 3 inch layer of the corn cob bedding which I had soaked overnight in water. The cob was placed directly on top of the drainage pad which is the material used to filter effluent (liquid waste). 

Possible benefits of corn cob (general)

One function I’m considering is that of a moisture buffer. When there is an abundance of liquid I picture the cob soaking it up and then retaining that moisture to help keep the compost above the 70% moisture level that I’ve read is the minimum for black soldier fly larvae (BSFL or “grubs”).

I think the sponge-like structure of corn cob may make it a good substrate for beneficial bacteria. I have fed fresh whole corn cobs to BSFL in the past and I noticed that larvae could be seen in the crevices of the cobs well after any visible corn kernel was gone. In some cases I saw this activity on cobs that had been added several months earlier. The larvae appeared to be feeding, and most of the time it was the smaller larvae. I’m guessing that they were feeding on bacteria since no food was visible. Maybe only the smaller larvae could fit into the small crevices of the cobs. I’m thinking that the sponge-like structure of corn cob promotes the presence of oxygen and therefore if bacteria were present they would be the aerobic type (thrives in the presence of oxygen). This relates to the idea that BSFL consume and derive nutrition from bacteria; something I’m not sure of. If the cob pieces promote aerobic bacteria them maybe it will help maintain overall aerobic conditions in the compost.

Drainage is always a critical issue in BSF composters, and corn cob may facilitate better drainage. Given its porous structure the cob may allow liquids to pass through the otherwise dense residue created by BSFL. This is also related to anaerobic bacteria (thrive in the absence of oxygen) which are associated with foul odors and BSF system crashes. Flooded conditions limit the oxygen present in the compost which promotes undesirable anaerobic bacteria. Therefore, good drainage is key to keeping a BSF unit balanced and corn cob may help with this.

Possible benefits (for system start up)

In addition to the concepts above I began this test with the idea that in the start up phase the cob would work as a pre-filter and keep the initial waste off of the filter material. To be honest I wasn’t exactly sure if there was any benefit in that, it was more of a hunch or a guess. The concept of a pre-filter morphed into something else, more on that below.

Maintaining a high moisture level is always important in a BSF unit, but it’s usually automatic in an established system which receives regular large additions of waste. In a new system with little or no larvae present the waste has a tendency to dry out, especially in dry climates. Keeping the beginning waste moist is important for two reasons; any newly hatched larvae are at risk of dehydration, and moist waste is better at giving off the odor which serves as a beacon for egg laying BSF females. The three inch layer of moistened cob was designed to increase the bulk in the new unit with something that would absorb and retain liquid without overloading the unit with food waste. After adding the soaked corn cob I observed that it too was drying out after a few days. As a result I began adding more liquid to the unit which led me to the idea of flushing the system with liquid several times per day.

Flushing a new BSF unit with liquids

When I saw the need to rehydrate the cob pieces I decided to wet it with the liquid produced when I fermented dried corn as a BSF attractant. (A favorite BSF attractant of mine is dry cracked corn covered with water and allowed to ferment. Sugar can be added to speed up the fermentation, but I have more often not used sugar.) I slowly poured approximately one gallon of the corn liquid into the unit, making an effort to distribute it as evenly as possible. As the liquid evaporated from the cob it gave off a good volume of the scent that BSF females followed back to the unit. The effect was strongest just after pouring in the liquid so I began draining the corn liquid into a bucket and re-introducing it to the unit as described above. Cycling liquid through the unit several times a day has kept the contents moist and I believe it has enhanced the attractiveness of the unit to BSF.

After 3-4 days of flushing the unit with the corn liquid I noticed that the pleasant sour smell was developing a less pleasant odor that I think indicated growth of anaerobic bacteria. At that point I stopped recycling the liquid and began flushing the system with fresh water. 4-6 times everyday I’m draining any liquid in the unit and adding it to my tomato plants, and then adding 4-6 quarts of fresh water evenly over the corn cob pieces and waste. I don’t drain the system immediately, I have been leaving the newly added liquid in the bottom of the unit as I believe it will help keep the ambient humidity within the unit higher and increase the attractive odor which helps attract BSF.

Going forward

I anticipate that as the volume of waste increases, the churning action of the BSFL will mix the layer of cob evenly throughout. My hope is that the cob will continue to help keep the unit aerobic and improve drainage. I plan to continue flushing the waste with fresh water until I see some indication that it is having either no effect or a negative effect. I’m very curious if it might make for a more stable system. At the least it would serve as a constant indicator of how well the system is draining.

I’ll add photos and videos soon.

To make comments please join the discussion at the corresponding topic at our new forum.

*I’m not an entomologist, and everything I write about BSF is an educated guess.

 

EDIT: I’m sorry to say that we will probably not be shipping starter kits this year. If you have a good source you would like to recommend please feel free to do so in the comment section.

We’re beginning to get a lot of  inquiries about BSF starter kits as usual for this time of year. In previous years we produced and sold a kit but we haven’t decided if we will do so this year. We will post our decision here as soon as possible. Thanks!

 

 

Dried corn kernels soaked in water are the best bait for attracting BSF females that I have tried. I’m currently using a batch that I began soaking over a month ago. Once fermented, the corn and water give off a strong sour smell that is great for attracting black soldier fly females.

Once the BSF are established the result is a nearly odor-free process, but in the beginning it’s best to have a strong odor so the females can locate the unit. I like using fermented corn because even though it has a strong odor I don’t find it as offensive as most rotting food. It’s not a smell that I necessarily like, but it’s one I can live with during the set up phase and once I’ve got a dense colony I can go back to the normal, mild and pleasant odor of a balanced BSF composter.

One advantage of this method is that you don’t need to deal with food scraps which tend to become moldy and also attract a lot of undesired species. I did see a few fruit flies and other small flying insects in and around the corn, but compared to other baits I’ve used corn is best in this regard. Most notable is the absence of blow flies and to a great extent, house flies.

I’m using  two techniques based on this idea. I have small buckets of soured corn and water in a few places and BSF females are laying eggs in the buckets. Some eggs are laid on the bucket walls and others are laid on the dry corn that’s above the water line. The resulting larvae should be able to develop in the buckets, as long as the corn isn’t completely submerged. When there are a good number of larvae in the corn/water I’ll remove and reserve the liquid and use the corn and larvae to seed a new BSF composting unit. The corn will eventually be consumed by the larvae in the new unit and the liquid can be used alone as an attractant if needed.

The strained liquid can be used to help attract BSF females directly to new composting units. Attracting egg laying females is automatic if you have an established colony, but it is the biggest challenge in establishing a new unit. Adding the corn liquid to other scraps you place in a new unit will increase the attractive odor of the bait. Also, if you live in an area that has a limited BSF population or a cool climate this attractant might help you maintain a denser colony throughout the mating season by directing more females to your composter.

I’m sure there are many other foods that could be used in a similar way. I used corn because I can buy a 50 pound bag (22kg) for about $8 at the local feed store. The key is to develop a strong smell that will represent a food source to the female BSF who are searching for an egg laying site. I’ve been told by people in the Philippines that BSF are often found in rotting coconut meat. I imagine that if you applied the principle I described above with coconut as the base that it would also work well. Likewise, I noticed good results once after adding sour milk to a unit. Your goal should be to have a bait that you can smell from a few yards/meters away. If you can smell it from that distance the BSF will have no trouble locating your composter.